Trawling through the annals of the internet, our search takes us back to the late 1970s. A brash Italian by the name of Carlo Crocco has just left the family business – Binda Group, best known for making Breil watches and Wyler Geneva – to launch a new luxury watch brand. One unlike the world has ever seen. This was Hublot, a brand that would later become synonymous with both immense success and intense, often vitriolic, criticism. But why? Why does Hublot elicit such a strong, often negative, reaction from a significant portion of the watch collecting community? The answer, as with most things, is multifaceted and complex.
The initial reaction to Hublot wasn't entirely negative. Crocco’s vision, while unconventional, was bold. He aimed to create a luxury sports watch that blended high-end materials with a sporty aesthetic, a concept that was relatively novel at the time. The introduction of the "Fusion" concept, combining seemingly disparate materials like gold and rubber, was a significant departure from the established norms of traditional watchmaking. This boldness, however, would become a double-edged sword.
Why do most watch collectors love to hate Hublot? The animosity towards Hublot stems from a confluence of factors, none of which are easily dismissed. One key element is the brand's aggressive marketing strategy. Hublot's association with high-profile celebrities and sports figures, while undeniably effective in boosting brand recognition and sales, has alienated many purists who view such tactics as crass commercialism, undermining the perceived exclusivity and heritage of traditional watchmaking. This perception is further fueled by Hublot's frequent collaborations, often perceived as prioritizing quantity over quality, diluting the brand's image and leaving some collectors feeling that the brand is chasing trends rather than establishing a coherent identity.
The materials themselves, while innovative, also contribute to the negative perception. The use of rubber, particularly in combination with precious metals, is often seen as jarring and incongruous by traditionalists. The argument is not simply about aesthetics; many believe that the choice of materials compromises the perceived longevity and durability of the watches. While Hublot argues that its rubber is high-quality and resistant, the perception persists that the combination is inherently less refined and less timeless than more conventional materials.
This leads to another crucial point: perceived value. Hublot watches command significant prices, often comparable to or even exceeding those of established luxury brands with far longer histories and more intricate movements. For many collectors, the price-to-value ratio doesn't seem to align. The argument is that, while the watches may be visually striking and boast impressive technical features in some cases, the overall craftsmanship and heritage don't justify the hefty price tag. This is particularly true when compared to brands with a demonstrable history of horological innovation and meticulous attention to detail.
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